Nicaragua is the poorest country in Central America and one of the poorest in the entire world. But it is also one of the most culturally-rich, and subsequently, one of the happiest. With a population consisting primarily of mestizos, or mixed-race people, the fact that a surprising number of people here can communicate in broken English (despite Spanish being, obviously, the vastly dominant language) is a testament to their diverse heritage.

What is particularly interesting about Nicaragua’s cultural mix is the physical divide: the country is less than 500 kilometers across, and yet East and West are vastly different here. The West, which includes the capital Managua and a majority of the population, was originally colonized by Spain. As such, it has maintained a similar heritage to most other Latin American countries, deeply influenced by Iberian culture.

The East, however, has a vastly different history. Once a British protectorate, it is more culturally similar to the islands of the Caribbean, many of which were once or are still today British-ruled. English is still widely spoken amongst these people, although continued immigration by Spanish speakers has tipped the scales in favor of that language. Still, the large population of mixed African colonists from the Caribbean, as well as the indigenous Garifuna (similar to Belize to the north), Miskito, Rama and Sumo people, have ensured that while small, the people from the East have kept Nicaragua’s cultural heritage diverse.

Very few places in the world celebrate Christmas the way Central Americans do. No matter what country you’re in here, chances are you will experience the most festive environment you’ve ever been a part of for a holiday (perhaps only the Philippines can compete for the honor of most extravagant Christmas celebrations).

The celebration here begins a full nine days before Christmas, with Las Posadas celebrating the symbolism of Mary’s pregnancy, the journey of Mary and Joseph to Bethlehem, and the search for lodging on the night Jesus was born. Religious processions are often seen marching through the streets—particularly in Guatemala—with figures of Mary and Joseph carried to the houses of friends and loved ones.

This nine-day celebration culminates in Nochebuena, or Christmas Eve, when just about everyone in Central America begins to gather with friends and family for huge feasts— featuring tamales (similar to empanadas), lechon (roast pig), gallina rellena (stuffed chicken) and hot chocolate—and dance celebrations that include lots of Christmas carols. Many of them attend the Misa del Gallo (“Rooster Mass”), which begins at midnight. Those who don’t attend the midnight mass typically gather around their home Nativity scenes to pray, sing and often exchange gifts. Many also use this opportunity to complete their Nativity display with the baby Jesus figure—conspicuously absent from the display for the weeks leading up to Nochebuena. In El Salvador and Nicaragua, it is common for people to shoot fireworks and estrellitas (little stars) to illuminate their lands and beaches and celebrate the significance of the day.

It must be experienced to be appreciated, so if you want to be amongst Central American people in their most festive state, plan a Christmas season here sometime. Many of these same traditions are prevalent in other Latin American countries outside of Central America, but nowhere quite to the extent of here.